Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
